In the heart of Panjim, nestled within the Chicholem-Bhatulem area, stands a bakery steeped in history and tradition. Epifanio Braganca, the current custodian of this cherished establishment, continues to uphold the legacy of his family’s bakery, which has been serving the community since 1857. Known for its signature hot bread, baked in the traditional Goan manner, Braganca’s bakery remains a beacon for locals and visitors alike.
Originally established by another individual, the bakery came under the stewardship of Epifanio’s father, Isidore Braganca, who later passed the reins to Epifanio’s sister and brother-in-law. However, fate intervened, and following the passing of his relatives, Epifanio assumed the responsibility of preserving the art of breadmaking in 1997. While the bakery once relied on toddy, a traditional ingredient supplied by local toddy tappers, scarcity has led to the adoption of yeast in the baking process.
Beyond catering to their own baking needs, Epifanio extends his services to the community, particularly during festivities and family gatherings. Although the bakery specializes in bread, abstaining from packaged goods due to taxation regulations, Epifanio accommodates requests for specialty items such as cakes and seasonal treats like Christmas cakes, batika, and bolinhas.
Staffed by a dedicated team of three individuals, Epifanio’s bakery operates with efficiency and commitment. While his wife manages household affairs and assists with customer service, two additional workers traverse nearby areas on cycles, delivering freshly baked bread to patrons. Despite previously supplying hotels and restaurants, Epifanio has shifted focus to serving the local community directly.
Reflecting on the economics of breadmaking, Epifanio acknowledges the challenges posed by rising input costs. Despite selling bread at a modest price of Rs 5 per piece, the procurement expenses remain substantial. From the cost of flour and firewood to yeast and rock salt, maintaining profitability proves elusive in an increasingly competitive market.
Concerned about the future viability of traditional baking practices, Epifanio fears for the fate of this time-honored profession. Citing the reluctance of his children to inherit the trade due to its limited financial prospects, he laments the trend of traditional bakeries being leased to outsiders. Furthermore, logistical hurdles, such as obtaining forest passes for sourcing firewood, exacerbate the industry’s woes.
When queried about the possibility of transitioning to electric ovens, Epifanio dismisses the notion, citing inferior results compared to traditional methods. Despite acknowledging government subsidies aimed at supporting small businesses, he bemoans the bureaucratic hurdles and apparent discontinuation of such initiatives. Without intervention and policy reform, he warns of the impending disappearance of traditional bakeries and the iconic Goan bread from local tables.
Epifanio’s unwavering dedication to preserving Goan culinary heritage serves as a poignant reminder of the importance of safeguarding cultural traditions amidst the tide of modernization and economic challenges.